far as real surfing, they suck. Yea pros can ride them and make it look cool, but i promise you... YOU CANT! Even the Ancient Hawaiian boards people are recreating are very hard to ride. AND trying to make something like that, into your everyday board, is just a bad idea. If you get past all the materials, you realize that creating a quiver for So Cal is actually simple, DON'T BUY INTO THE HYPE. You know what works best for you. I believe that a true California quiver should consist of three boards. First, your Board for 'real' surfing (whatever it may be always be ready for good surf). My second board is gonna be something for small waves only. I like a normal short board template with a pulled tail and lots of thickness and
definitely a single fin. Believe it or not, single fins have a lot of drive, so if you get up and pump the wave, you can get great down the line speed (even on a knee high wave). My third and final board is a hand board. Gotta have a hand board. I make one out of epoxy that works good, but there are a ton of ways to make them. The easiest way is out of Papilo wood . Its really easy to shape and a standard wood sealer will work as a resin. There is no need for fiberglass cloth, just seal it. I think Lind seed oil is good too (I think that's what it's called). I haven't used it, but I hear good things. Personally, I have traveled thru so many
little barrels on my hand board. I swear by it. This is a must have in my three board quiver. So there it is... if your still trying to decide between poly and epoxy on your next stick, go poly if your buying off the rack and epoxy if your making it. You may get a good epoxy off the rack, but it probly won't happen twice. Actually i take that back, I don't want to be a hater because ROBERT WIENER, from Ventura, makes sick epoxy. I worked for him when he first got started. He probably won't remember, but i use to beat it into his head that you don't need as much glass with epoxy. He's the only guy i seen making performance epoxy in a true custom board. He's laminating them with a 4oz DECK x 4oz BOTTOM with a 4oz deck patch and they are super strong and light as shizzy. Now I'm sure people are gonna be like blah blah, your wrong, blah blah, but this is just my opinion and i don't Trust to many shapers. I guess i got tired of waiting 6 months for a board that didn't work . Also working in a glass shop glassing every shapers boards in the area i learned that shapers dont give a shit about the glass job, and if your a kook your gonna get treated like one. I know you think there your friends but most shapers just want your money" there broke ass shapers", That's why you gotta make it. When I'm choosing materials for a board I personally go poly, strictly for the the fact that the flex is what i like and am used to plus I'm always fixing dings and solar resin drys quickly. Epoxy is so slow and that it's hard to work with. Even when i worked for another board maker (which I can't name), that only makes epoxy. The boards would constantly drain out of the nose and tail when you'd lam them. We were always patching tips and tails before hot coats because the resin in the corner folds would drain out, It's a nightmare. On top of it we were putting 3 layers of 4oz cloth on the deck of a 6'2 -just doesn't make sense to me. So when choosing a epoxy board you gotta be picky. try and give it a little flex on the rack see how it feels and dont ever ride the XTR shit, cause that's what it is. SHIT. anyway as you can see Ive been doing this for a long time and get a little worked up but hey, its a blog and I'm here to just ramble.....so listen up. Poly is the best way. If you need a magic board i suggest almost any AL. Merrick off the rack with normal glass. Or go get a custom board from Roberts. hes on the web. OR STOP BEING A LITTLE GIRL AND GO MAKE YOURSELF A BOARD. (IF YOU ARE A GIRL,,,,,,YOU GO GIRL ...MAKE THAT SURFBOARD.....
Alright that's my surf rant for the day. OH, by the way i surfed Leo Carrillo today, 4ft and perfect. Ha-Ha!!!
(Below Clint Allen, loves a normal short board. Pt. Huneme tube.....)
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